West Coast IPA

Of all the beers that I'd really like to get good at brewing, probably IPA is at the top of the list. No matter what the season or the circumstances, a good IPA with a wallop of hop aroma and flavor will always hit the spot. None of my IPA have been great, but they're slowly getting better. We'll see how this one goes....

This recipe came from a blog called West Coast Brewing and although I know nothing about the brewer, he and his buddies seem to like it, so why not. Plus, it doesn't call for an enormous (and expensive) volume of hops, potentially making it an efficient way to brew a good IPA. (Saving on hops, not too much beer lost to absorption by the hops.)

I did a double brew-day with two guys in the homebrewing club. The other beer was a Bitter, for which we used my larger cooler mash tun and its stainless bazooka screen. The tun performed well, although it seemed to loose more wort to tun deadspace than my round cooler.

The cooler, on the other hand, wouldn't stop leaking. So I just mashed in my kettle and used the tun to sparge. Probably this resulted in some efficiency loss, but that's OK. Anyway, it's always a work in progress. Eventually I will find the right combination of hardware pieces to fully seal the round cooler with the new 1/2" fittings and CPVC manifold.

West Coast IPA
 3-Gallons

6# US 2-Row
10oz C40
6oz C20

.5oz Centenial, 9.7%AA, first wort
.75oz Centenial, 9.7%AA, 20min
.5oz Centenial, 9.7%AA, 10min
.5oz Cascade, 6.4%AA, 0min
1.5oz Cascade, 6.4%, dry, 7 days

US-05 Yeast

2grams Gypsum
1gram CaCl

Mash @152F, 1 hour

1 hour boil

Expected OG/FG/IBU/ABV: 1.046 / 1.011 / 4.5 / 59

Brewed on 12/14/13

Initial Mash temps were good, but the kettle doesn't hold heat too well, so I had to use direct heat and stir. Sparge was OK but probably not hot enough.

Pre-Boil OG was in the 1.035 range, so I added 1lb of dry malt extract to compensate, and get rid of some of the extract I had lying around.

Boil went fine. Got a nice vigorous boil but I suspect I was over my target volume a bit.

Cooled to around 110F using my immersion chiller , and transferred to Better Bottle, being careful not to aerate.  It was about 25F and snowing outside, so I just let the Better Bottle sit outside for a while, until it felt cool to the touch. This took about 3 hours.

Pitched around 7pm, and shook the vigorously to aerate.

Let the BB sit in a tub of water, around 60F ambient. 

12/16/13, 6pm - About a quarter inch of krausen has formed.

12/17/13, 6pm - Fermentation is more active, with maybe 3/4" - 1" of krausen.

12/18/13, 6:15pm - Fermentation is even more active. Likely to be high krausen.

12/24/13 - After moving the carboy on 12/22/13 to a room temperature area to finish up, fermentation is now going very slowly and the yeast is starting to sink. I guess the low temps in the basement really keep fermentation slow.

12/26/13 - Racked to secondary and added the dry hops.

1/3/13 - Bottled, going for 2 units of carbonation. Got about 1.25 gallons - 24 * 12oz and a few 22oz bottles. The sample tasted good, with an OK aroma.

Equipment Upgrades

Part of the reason I've been brewing relatively infrequently during October and November is that I've decided to spend some time, money and effort on upgrading my mashing equipment a bit to make things more efficient, easier to use, more reliable, and ultimately able to produce better beer.

After this I really don't want to spend any more money on equipment for a long while. I'd rather just buy ingredients and brew beer.

Upgrade 1: Improved Manifold for the 5-gallon MLT
While the hose-braid that I have been using as a lautering manifold has worked reasonably well, it seemed to have a tendency to get compressed or deformed during the mash, with the result that it essential got all clogged and would not allow wort through. So I decided to build a PVC manifold like the one described at this post. Fortunately, someone posted the plans for a version of this manifold that would fit into a 5-gallon cooler like mine. Note that like the second upgrade, this requires a 1/2" bulkhead to work.

There were two main annoyances here. First was getting the bulkhead installed so that it didn't leak, but now it seems that I've done it correctly, using a similar method to my previous 3/8" bulkhead - neoprene washers, stainless washers, and O-rings, very tightly pushed up against the wall of the cooler by the ball valve on the outside and the CPVC fitting on the inside.

The second annoyance was finding the 1/2" CPVC pipe at Home Depot, which seemed to be out of it at the closest location, so I had to drive to another location which ate up a lot of time.

Once I had the pipe, sawing pieces to the appropriate lengths and fitting them together and slotting them was pretty easy, using a pipe saw I picked up for $8 at Home Depot. Fortunately, the lengths of the pieces do not need to be completely accurate. Once I had assembled the octagon, I tested to make sure it fit underneath the bulkhead assembly. It did, however, the bulkhead could not connect to the manifold using a straight piece of pipe. So I connect a short piece of pipe to the elbow on the octagon and to the bulkhead, then fit a piece of 1/2" ID high-temp tubing around each piece.

The sawing created a lot of CPVC sawdust. I tried as best I could to clean it out of the pipes but pushing a dowel through each segment. Note that I also sanded off the markings on the outside of the pipe and use nail polish remover to get rid of the stickers and glue that were attached to a few of the T-joints, since I didn't want those things to get into my beer.

Voila!

I plant to test it out on my next beer, which will be an IPA. I've heard that this type of manifold gets better efficiency, even when batch sparging, than the hose braid I used to have.



 Upgrade 2: Large Mash Tun for Big Beers of 5-Gallon Batches
Additionally, if I want to do mashes with more than about 12 pounds of grain, or do a "normal" five gallon batch, I'll will need a bigger mash tun. I don't plan to start regularly doing 5 gallons at a time, but if I either brew with other people, or plan to do sours or other beers that take a really long time to mature, it might make sense to just do 5 gallons instead of 3 at a time. Fortunately, I swapped another person in the homebrew club for an 8-gallon kettle, and my parents had a large 10-gallon cooler lying around, so I didn't have to buy too much stuff to do this upgrade - just the bulkhead assembly, a 1/2" coupler, and a screen mesh. The only difficulty here was getting the bulkhead to be leak-free.

In the future, this MLT could be upgraded to a CPVC manifold, since the pipe came only in 10' lengths.

Upgrade 3: Better Chiller
 My DIY wort chiller works decently, but I've never been able to get it to be leak-free. Since the end of the copper tubing doesn't extend much outside the kettle, if it leaks, the leaking water can easily end up in the wort. Not good. Additionally, it tends to cool the wort near the coil much more quickly than the wort in the center of the pot. Basically, I didn't want to have to deal with these issues, the leaking especially, or get a soldering iron etc... to try to fix it. So I bought a "Wasp" chiller from Jaded Brewing, which I hope will work well. I got the recirculating arm option, in case I ever get a pump and build a recirculating Jamil-O-Chiller. 

Again, I plan to use the chiller on my next beer.

Black Forest Stout Brewday

At the request of my wife, I brewed a chocolate stout. At the request of myself, I'll be adding cherries. This recipe is a scaled version of the Black Forest Stout recipe from Brewing Classic Styles. It's supposed to be like the cake - chocolatey, sweet, cherry flavors. In other words, a desert beer.

Black Forest Stout
8.5# British Pal Ale Malt
8oz Roasted Barley
6oz Crystal 40
6oz Crystal 80
5oz Chocolate Malt

5oz Unsweetened Cocoa Powder, added during the last 5 min of the boil
3# Cherry Puree, added after fermentation has slowed

.25oz Warrior, 13.7%, 60min
.50oz Chinook, 11%, 60min

Danstar Nottingham

Expected FG / OG / IBUs / ABV: 1.066 / 1.013 / 35 / 6.9$
(Not sure if my software, BrewTarget, considers the effects of the Cherry Puree, which will raise the OG and the ABV.)

Brewed 11/10/13, with a buddy from the local brewing club

Hit my mash temps just fine.

Stuck sparge! Crap. I think that the grains were crushed quite a bit too finely. To deal with it, I added all the sparge water at once, scooped the mash into my 8gallon kettle, and heated up to sparge temps. Then scooped it back into the MLT with the valve open. I also put some of the grain into a colander over a bucket, and it slowly drained some beer into the bucket. Probably this all resulted in reduced efficiency and some extra trub material in the kettle. Not a disaster, but close, I would say.

Got about 4 gallons of wort, pre-boil.

Didn't take gravity readings before the boil, but when 15mins was left I had about 1.060, so surprisingly not bad efficiency.

Added the chocolate late in the boil. It made the beer look like boiling chocolate syrup. Dark, thick, chocolatey.

Cooled to about 110F, then let the kettle sit in the garage for a while, which by that time was around 60F. Pitched later, when the wort was about at 70F. I rehydrated the yeast this time.

11/11/13, 10:30am. The beer was bubbling slowly.

11/12/13, 6pm. Fermentation very active. The beer looks like chocolate milk.

11/13/13, 6pm. Fermentation is now quite slow in terms of airlock activity.

11/19/13, put the cherry puree into a plastic fermenting bucket and racked the beer on top of it, getting some chocolate sludge in there as well.

12/3/13, bottled, going for 2.25 units of CO2. The beer tasted of chocolate but not a whole lot of cherry. I'll try it in a week or so, assuming that the 60F in the basement is warm enough for yeast activity. There appeared to be a bit of chocolate sludge in each bottle.

Smoked Porter 3 Review

My third attempt at the smoked porter style follows the recipe in Brewing Classic Styles. My previous two attempts to brew this style sadly didn't turn out as smoky as I was hoping. Probably the smoked malt had in both cases lost some of its smoky flavor during storage. Fortunately, the malt used in this beer was likely fresh, as the beer is indeed smoky.

Appearance: Very dark brown but not quite black. Tan head that fades fairly quickly but leaves lacing where the glass meets the beer.

Aroma: Smoke dominates, but I do get some earthy hops in there. I don't get the
bacon-like smoke that some smokey beers have.

Taste: The taste is less smoke-dominant than the smell. I get some chocolatey or coffee like notes blended with the smoke. It does not have any bacony notes; in fact I would say the smoke is quite noticeable but not acrid or meaty. There's some sweetness in there too. The aftertaste is dominated by smoke and does have a slightly acrid note, in addition to some earthy hop bitterness.

Mouthfeel: Chewy, medium-low carbonation, pretty thick in body. But I don't think it has as much thickness some of my brews with oats.

Overall: To my palate, a medium smokey porter with a good balance between smoke character, coffee or chocolate character and sweetness. I like it quite a bit. A good beer for the fall and winter.

Brewing Year in Review

I started this blog on June 27, 2012. It's been a bit over a year, and so I wanted to summarize the year's brewing activities, review what went right and wrong, and plan for the next year or so of brewing.

June 2012 to October 14, 2013

Recipes Brewed and Recorded: 23

Tastings and Reviews: 20

Best Brews: American Stout; King Titus Clone ; Smoked Mild; American Brown Ale

Crappiest Brews: Hefeweissen; Cascade Session IPA; 3944 Wit

New Equipment: Turkey Fryer; Immersion Chiller with recirculating pump; 8 gallon pot for direct-heated mashes; Refractomer for easier gravity readings; Better Bottles; buckets and racking / bottling equipment for sours; measuring stick for water / wort volume; a whole bunch of bottles

Goals for Upcoming Year

1. Develop at least one house recipe of some kind that I know and can consistently brew well
2.  Improve my brewing technique and precision
1. Take gravity of 1st, 2nd runnings, pre-boil beer, and post-boil beer
2. Accurately measure the volumes of brewing water and beer
3. Accurately measure the weight of all of my ingredients 
4. Perhaps build a Jamil-O-Chiller
3. Brew styles I haven't brewed before
1. Belgian beers / Abbey Ales
2. Scottish Ales
3. Another sour 
4. A few more high-alcohol beers that I can put in some of the many bottles I have lying around
4. Do some team brews with members of the club

Russian Imperial Stout

I haven't brewed a really big beer since November 2011, when I brewed a Barleywine. (I still have 9 bottles in the basement as it approaches its 2 year mark.) For my next big beer, I'll be brewing a Russian Imperial Stout from Brewing Classic Styles, called "The Czar's Revenge" but with a couple of ingredient substitutions.

With my acquisition of an 8 gallon pot, I can now do directly heated mashes. For the RIS, I will mash the full volume of grains in the 8 gallon pot, heat to 167F for mash-out, transfer to the 5 gallon cooler, drain, and add the remaining water at 167F for the 2nd runnings to reach my pre-boil volume.

As an aside, I thought about steeping the dark grains separately to reduce harshness, as this recipe uses a lot of black patent (8%) and could potentially have some astringency. But since that is in some ways part of the style and because steeping the dark grains separately form the main mash further complicates an already complicated brew day, I decided to put all the grains in one mash.

I will be adding 1 full packet of dry yeast to the RIS. According to the calculator at Mr. Malty, only 1.1 packets of dry yeast is necessary for a beer this volume and gravity. I figure I'll be OK and won't have to worry much about under-pitching as long as I aerate well.

As for temp. control, I definitely do not want to pitch the RIS yeast too warm as that could cause nasty fusel alcohols from a very vigorous fermentation.

Russian Imperial Stout
10.5# Breiss 2-Row
1# Light DME (added to bump up the gravity, may need to add more depending on efficiency)
1.125# Black Patent
12oz Special B
6oz Caramunich I
6oz Chocolate Malt
6oz Pale Chocolate

1.25oz Warrior, 70 min
1oz Kent Goldings, 15 min
1oz Kent Goldings, 1 min

Danstar - Dry 97

Mash at 154F for 75 minutes

Assume 65% mash efficiency

Expected OG / FG / IBUs / ABV: 1.095 / 1.024 / 75 / 9.2%

10/12/13
Made a starter of washed WLP002, which I was intending to use for a parti-gyled beer, probably a mild or porter.

10/13/13
Shit! The starter showed no signs of activity. No bubbles, no krausen, nothing. I must have somehow killed the yeast. I thought about running off the 3rd runnings to make some wort for future starters, but since I do not have a pressure cooker I could not completely sterilize the wort. Botulism can survive boiling, and although the probability that boiled wort will have it, the magnitude of the harm associated with a botulism infection is high - i.e. death. So a disappointing start to the day, especially since I could have gotten another 3-gallon beer from such a huge grain bill.

Otherwise, mashed with 4.5 gallons of water at @ 167F, to reach a mash temp of 154F. Mashed for 75 minutes to assure full conversion. I kept the mash in my new 8 gallon kettle, and applied direct heat (while stirring the mash gently) to keep up the temperature.

Direct-heated the mash to 167F, rested for 10 minutes, then ladled the mash to my cooler for mashing out. Got 3.75 gallons of 1st runnings at 17.2 Brix (1.071 SG). The second runnings were at 11.4 Brix (1.046 SG). Collected around 4.75 gallons of pre-boil wort at 14.5 Brix (1.059 SG), prior to adding the extract.

My 5-gallon kettle was nearly full, and I had to be very careful to avoid a boiler-over. After about 15 minutes of boiling, I added the 1# of extract, resulting in a new gravity of 18.4B or 1.076 SG. I boiled the wort for 45 minutes or so even before adding hops, so in total I ended up boiling for around 135 minutes. Maybe I got some melanoidin flavors (OK by me in such a flavorful beer.)

After boiling, the volume of wort was pretty much right on target at 3.25 gallons. According to my refractomer, a few minutes before flameout the wort was at 24B or 1.101 SG. Yay!

Cooled to around 110F using my IC and stirring, then placed covered kettle in tub of 64F water to cool.

A few hours later the wort was at 68F. Transferred to 5 gal Better Bottle making sure to heavily aerate during transfer, and pitched entire yeast packet.  Ambient temp was 64F.

10/14/13
Around 24 hours after pitching, the wort was bubbling at a surprisingly slow pace. I think in my last IPA with this yeast it was fermenting slowly after 24 hours and then after 48 it was going much more active. In any case a restrained fermentation here is probably a good thing at this point.

10/16/13
About 48 hours after pitching, fermentation remains quite active (more active than only a day after pitching). A thick, dark brown krausen has formed and the airlock bubbles maybe once every 2 seconds.

11/2/13
Transferred to secondary. Less than three gallons in the secondary, I would guess more like 2.5 - 2.75. I considered brewing a very small batch to bring things up to volume, but that could apparently cause quality problems. Quality over quantity, especially for a beer that is as expensive and time consuming to make as this one.

Put .75oz of toasted oak chips in a sanitized mason jar along with about 2 shots of whiskey, to pre-soak and draw out some of the oak flavors.

11/11/13
Added the oak and whiskey to the secondary fermenter. The stout smelled good, as did the oak mix. Now I wait. For a long time.

 2/23/14
Bottled today, going for 2 volumes of CO2, and added a few grams of US-05. The beer tasted quite good, though to my palate there wasn't much oak or whiskey. Finaly gravity was 1.034. So 8.8% ABV. Cool.

 8/12/14
Ugg. Bottles have been way overcarbonated for a while. Not sure if it's infection, brett, or stalled fermentation getting restarted. I have cracked the caps slightly open to let out excessive CO2 a number of times, which was really tedious, but the level of overcarbing seems to be slightly less with each opening. The problem though is that opening the bottle even slightly causing foaming and potentially some beer to come out. I cleaned the outside of the bottles with a bleach solution to reduce mold etc.

I would hate to have dump this batch but if the beer is completely lost I will do it.

Cider #1

My wife and I went apple picking last weekend and brought home a bunch of apples, some apple cider donuts, an apple pie, and a 1 gallon jug of fresh pressed apple cider, which fortunately had been stored at refrigerator temperatures. The orchard store also had some hard cider for sale, but since I like to ferment stuff at home, I figured, why not see what I can do with a $7 jug of fresh, unpasteurized cider.

9/5/13 - Bought cider, and stored it in the fridge.

9/7/13 - Put 1 tablet of campden in the cider to kill any wild yeasts and reduce / kill the bacteria in the cider, let sit in the 65F basement. Measured the gravity of the cider using my new refractomer. I don't have distilled water for use in calibrating the tool, but my tap water measured 0 Brix. The water is pretty light in mineral content, so I think that's about right. The reading was 11.25 Brix or 1.0452 OG. 

9/9/13, 6:45pm - Transferred cider with a funnel into a sanitized 1-gallon jug. Dissolved some yeast nutrient and 2 Tbsp honey in very hot water, and added it to cider. Pitched 1/3 packet of Red Star dry champagne yeast, and swirled the jug around to mix with the yeast into the cider. Placed the jug in the 65F ambient air in my parents' basement. Since I don't have any peptic enzyme, I will just add it later as it can be added after fermentation is complete without causing a problem.

Now I need to wait... a long time. Cider is apparently best after a long, cool fermentation. But at least the process of brewing cider is much easier than all-grain beer brewing.

9/10/13, 6pm
Cider was slowly bubbling. A small krausen had formed on top. The fermentation does not seem to be as vigorous as most of my beers.

11/11/13
Cider is now very clear, at least at 65F. The yeast appears to have all settled to the bottom. I transferred it off of the yeast cake into another jug, leaving most of the yeast behind. A tiny bit remained. It tasted OK, but had kind of a sulfury smell.

12/3/13
Bottled with table sugar, going for about 2.25 volumes. I didn't add any yeast, but stirred up some of the yeast that was at the bottom of the growled. The temps down in the basement are around 60F, which I hope is not too cold for the yeasties to eat the sugar and produce some carbonation over the course of a couple of weeks.